GWR U1 ex TafF Vale

The Hornby Dublo  0-6-0 chassis with the inch and a half motor was the basis for many kit builders

Wills Finecast

  • F101 S.R. E5 (ex L.B.S.C.R.) 0-6-2
  • F108 S.R. G6 (ex L.S.W.R.) 0-6-0
  • F111 G.W.R. V1 (ex Taff Vale) 0-6-2

K’s of Willesden

  • G.W.R. 97XX 0-6-0
  • L.M.S. 3F 0-6-0
  • L.N.E.R. J50 0-6-0

The J50 I recently added to my loco fleet features here

This month thanks to ebay I added the GWR V1. This was a very speculative purchase as the pictures showed no pony wheels and did not state that it was on an HD chassis even if the picture of the box showed that it should be. Anyway I took a chance and got it at a very good price. When it arrived, in the original box, it was clear that the pony wheels assembly had broken but the seller added a suitable pony set up . So the new pony wheels which were on a plastic carrier were added – not quite right but reasonable, the chassis, which was an HD 0-6-0, was 3 railed with a Marklin skate and nylon bolt to prevent shorting, The original 2 rail pick up was rewired to earth and the bottom of the skate insulated to prevent contact with the 2 rail pick up wire. The nylon bolt had a thick screw head and this had to be filed down to ensure that the skate had the maximum clearance. A little more filing is necessary as it stutters on the X crossings with their higher central section. I added coal to the bunker but the engine is still minus its handrails which I need to work on.

The one thing that you can’t see from the pictures is that the pony wheels don’t actually run on the rails, they hover slightly above. Adding some weight to the plastic pony just lifts the front drive wheels so I am going to live with them just not touching.

3 thoughts on “GWR U1 ex TafF Vale”

  1. I have similarly purchased a completed U1.
    On mine, the trailing wheel can drop by 45 degrees below horizontal using the kit parts. But the kink in the arm may have been increased.- also the arm is loose on the fixing pin. Have photos if this would help – how would I attach them?

  2. Ah the dear old U1. My first ever attempt to build a whitemetal locomotive. I absented myself from school one afternoon around 1968 and bought it from BEC models in Tooting, London. I seem to remember the chassis needed slight modification and this was done courtesy of the metalwork shop in Fulham Gas works where my Dad worked. I used balsa cement for assembly and the final results were very pleasing to a lad of 13 years. Happy days.

  3. Hi folks
    On the subject of Wills kits, after a time they moved to mostly Triang chassis. Has anyone tried building using a HD chassis. For example several are 4-6-0 would a castle chassis work? Ditto the 0-6-0 Jinty based kits? I dont think I can build a chassis from scratch and the kits are still about.

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